Monday, 1 May – Despite concern, I was fortunately able to head back to Windhoek to catch my bus. Chester was going to take care of securing our flat as we both would be gone for some time. We board our double-decker bus at about 6pm to embark on our 20-hour ride north through Namibia and then east along the Caprivi strip of Namibia before crossing into Zambia. We immediately make friends with another American who is also heading in the same direction and had been traveling around southern Africa. His name is Jesse and is from NYC and he became a welcome addition to our group of 4 (Coppelia had stayed in Windhoek for the night.) The ride was long, safe and overall, uneventful besides the constant battle with the driver to turn to the air conditioner off as everyone on the bus was uncomfortably cold.

Tuesday, 2 May – Border crossings are interesting and seemingly painless. I have not done one back home (into Canada or Mexico so would be interested to see how they compare) but we all get off the bus, there is a rather hectic non-line formation as everyone waits for the officials to stamp the passport. There is not much of a process, just a stamp and you move on.

We finally arrive in Livingstone, Zambia and it is absolute chaos trying to claim our bags from the trailer because everyone wants their bag and the locals are all trying to get us to buy necklaces and bracelets or to get us to reserve a taxi with them. Jesse is heading to Jolly Boys Backpacker’s Lodge as well so we proceed in that direction with a guide who offers to take us for free. It is a close walk from the bus stop and it is indeed a relief to be able to settle down somewhere and shower. Jolly Boys is like a mini-oasis. It is very peaceful, clean, and welcoming but very much gives you privacy despite the fact that there are communal bathrooms, a communal kitchen, eating area and lounging by the pool area.

We spend the afternoon relaxing, exploring part of Livingstone and coming up with a game plan for the next few days. Jolly Boys is great in that they have a resource file of things to do in the area, will even book things for you, and if you register with them, they arrange for a multiple entry visa which helps things out if you travel outside Zambia.